Buying Guide: Picking the Best Spinning Reel | Bass Pro Shops

For many anglers, fishing with spinning reels have surpassed baitcaster reels as the fishing reel of choice, probably because spinning reels are easy to use and don't have the learning curve of casting reels. Also, for light-line applications and finesse techniques, spinning reels reign supreme in terms of performance and ease of use. Choosing the best spinning reel for your needs, however, can often be challenging if you're unfamiliar with how a spinning reel operates and the terms used to discuss reel performance. Take a read through the following guide to pick up some helpful hints for choosing the perfect spinning reel.

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The Parts of a Spinning Reel

Many anglers refer to spinning reels as open-face reels. Another unique feature of a spinning reel is that it is mounted to the underside of a fishing rod. Spinning reels are great fishing reels for beginning anglers because of their easy use and due to their design, they are less likely to get tangles in the fishing line. This reel type has eight main parts, they are: The reel foot, reel handle, reel body, anti-reverse switch, the bail, line spool, spool release and drag adjustment and line roller.

Spinning Reel Body & Weight

Reel bodies (often referred as the "housing") can be made of graphite or aluminum, or sometimes a combination of both. Aluminum housing is stronger than graphite and exhibits less flex; however, graphite is lighter. Deciding whether strength or weight is more important is ultimately a personal choice. The highest quality freshwater reels tend have aluminum bodies; however, if your chosen playing field is saltwater, graphite is the way to go due to its corrosion-resistant qualities.

Bass Pro Shops MegaCast Spinning Reel - MCT10

Another factor to look for is a solidly constructed reel body. There should be no loose or flimsy parts, and all moving parts should be smooth in performance and have no back play whatsoever. Also, spinning reels have more parts than casting reels. Choosing a reel with fewer parts can reduce the chances of mechanical breakdown.

Weight is another key factor when deciding on a reel for one simple reason — fatigue. Less strain is put on the wrist and forearm when dealing with a lighter reel, and for those that spend a great deal of time on the water, this can be even more important in terms of joint stress and fatigue. Most reels will give weight in ounces. Make weight a consideration when shopping for a spinning reel, and when comparing reel weights online, be sure you're comparing similar sized reels.

Pick the Correct Spinning Reel Size

Choosing the correct reel size is as easy as determining the size fishing line you intend to use most often. The lighter the line you intend to use, the smaller the reel you should purchase. Ten-pound test line should be the highest strength and diameter used on a spinning reel. (This is not applicable for saltwater fishing or heavy trolling scenarios.)

For example, if you primarily jig for smallmouth bass and walleye, 8-pound test fishing line would probably be your average line strength. Therefore, choosing a medium-size reel rated for 6, 8 and 10-pound line would be your best selection.

To make sure that the reel you're buying is rated for the pound-test line you intend to use, check the line capacity information found on the spool of the reel, or, if shopping online, in the product chart. The chart typically displays the middle line capacity, so if it says "6 LB/90 YDS," the reel is also well suited for 4 and 8 pound line.

Understand the Reel Gear Ratio

Fishing reels come in all sizes; make sure you choose a reel that matches the line size you intend to use most often.

Unlike casting reels, which have a rotating spool, the spool on a spinning reel is fixed, and a bail wraps the line onto the spool as you turn the handle. So when discussing spinning reels, gear ratio refers to the number of times the bail rotates around the spool with a single turn of the reel handle. For example, on a reel with a 4:1 gear ratio, the bail rotates around the spool four times for every one single turn of the handle. A 4:1 gear ratio is considered a slow-speed reel because a relatively small amount of line is "picked up" during the cranking process (four wraps of line around the spool with each crank). The benefit is that these reels provide more torque for reeling in large fish. A 6:1 ratio is considered a high-speed retrieve. A high, low or medium speed retrieve should be determined by the style of fishing you intend to do.

If you can only choose one spinning reel, go for a medium speed model (5:1). However, if you can afford more than one reel, adding a high-speed and low-speed reel to your arsenal will allow you to best cover all situations.

 "Line recovery" is a measurement in inches that's generally given for spinning reels. This measurement simply states the length of line that is wound onto the spool for each turn of the handle.

Consider the Drag System on a Spinning Reel

The drag system on a spinning reel is another important aspect to consider. The drag is responsible for applying pressure to a hooked fish, and letting out line during the fight. Without a smooth, high-quality drag the risk of broken lines and lost fish is a high probability. Always ensure that the reel you purchase has a smooth, non-constrictive drag. The line should pull out steadily, without hesitation, at whatever tension you set the drag.

There are two types of drag systems available on spinning reels: front and rear drag. Basically, this refers to the location of the drag controls, but there are some additional differences between the two styles. Front-drag systems generally feature multiple, large drag washers that offer increased durability and performance in comparison to rear-drag models. Rear-drag controls are easier to access (especially when fighting fish) yet they don't stand up as well to large, hard fighting fish species.

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Refinements are continually made within the fishing reel market, and the advent of sealed drag systems is a very noteworthy innovation. Exposure to elements can compromise the integrity of drag systems and inner gears, leading to drag slippage and mechanical problems over time. These issues are a thing of the past with sealed drag systems, which are available on Johnny Morris Signature Series fishing reel brand, Extreme spinning reels and the Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier spinning reels. A waterproof sealed drag system will ensure your spinning reel operates smoothly, with added drag power and durability, for years to come.

Spinning reels reign supreme for light-line applications and finesse techniques, such as jigging for walleye and smallmouth bass.

Know About the Ball Bearings in a Spinning Reel

Spinning reels feature ball bearings or bushings placed within the body for smoothness, support and stability. Most spinning reels also contain a roller bearing within the line roller. Generally speaking, the greater number of bearings a reel contains, the smoother the reel will perform. (Sealed stainless steel bearings are preferable over bushings for added durability and control.)

Choose a reel with the most ball bearings that your wallet can handle. At the bare minimum, I would suggest a reel with at least four ball bearings. There's nothing worse than having a reel that doesn't perform well, or isn't smooth on the retrieve, so try not to scrimp and save when it comes to this part of the reel equation — you'll curse yourself all the way back to the launch ramp.

Spools on a Spinning Reel Are Important

Mag spools like the one on the Johnny Morris Signature Reel (above) are wider and flatter, allowing for longer casts, faster retrieves, reduced line twist and increased line pickup.

The spool on a spinning reel plays an important part, not only for holding line, but also for casting distance and smoothness. Most spools on the market today are either anodized aluminum or graphite. As mentioned before, graphite is the lighter of the two materials, while aluminum spools offer greater strength and rigidity under pressure.

There are two basic spool styles: internal or skirted. Internal spools are mostly a thing of the past, although some manufacturers still make a few models for die-hard devotees. One major drawback to internal spools is the ease with which line becomes entangled within the housing of the reel. Skirted spools have helped alleviate this frustrating problem, and that's why this style has prevailed.

A variation of the skirted spool, the "long cast" spool features an interesting design with some purported benefits. Much as the name suggests, this spool is shallower than the regular style, although much longer in length. This elongated spool supposedly allows for less line friction, allowing increased casting distance for the angler — a definite benefit for clear-water or sight-fishing applications.

An even newer innovation in spinning reel design, Mag Spool Technology offers many some of the same benefits of the long cast spool, but with a different approach. These enlarged spools are both wider and flatter in composition to regular spinning reel spools. This unique design allows for longer casts, faster retrieves, reduced line twist and increased line pickup with each turn of the handle. Mag spools also reduce the likelihood of "line binding" — a frustrating tangle that tends to occur  when using superlines on spinning reels — by "slackening" the line wound onto the reel; the less tight braid is spooled on a reel, the less likely it is to bind during casts or vigorous hooksets.

Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier Spinning Reel

Mag Spool Technology is available on select Bass Pro Shops' spinning reels, including the Johnny Morris Signature Series and Pro Qualifier spinning reels.

Anti-Reverse Handles on a Fishing Reel

Anti-reverse handles are a prerequisite when searching for that perfect spinning reel. This function prevents the handle from spinning backward so that hook sets are powerful and accurate. If the spinning reel you're looking at has any sort of backward motion, my advice would be to look for a different model — your landing net will thank you.

While on the topic of handles, ensure that the reel you choose has a substantial arm and knob. A larger stature enables the angler to quickly "find" the handle, and also allows a firmer grip with less chance for slippage during wet weather, or when hands are sweaty.

Starter Series: Choosing the Right Fly Reel

One of the missions of Texas Freshwater Fly Fishing is to promote fly fishing here in Texas.  In promoting the sport, education is needed for those that are new.  A lack of education and the fear of approaching experts was a major reason that it took me soo long to get into the sport.  So, providing easily accessible, honest advice to those just getting into fly fishing is something I am going to strive to provide.

When first getting into fly fishing, you need to focus on acquiring five things.  All of these can be expensive, but they don't have to be!  There are less expensive ways to go about getting started if you want, and hopefully Texas Freshwater Fly Fishing can walk you through this process.  Here is what you will need:

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1. Fly Rod
2. Fly Reel
3. Line Set-Up (Backing, line, leader, tippet)
4. Accessories (flies, storage, net, etc.)
5. Knowledge (where and how to fly fish)

Each of these five things will be discussed in its own article.This second article will be your introduction to fly reels.  To help guide you in your learning about options in your first fly reel purchase.After deciding what fly rod you are purchasing, the next thing to decide is what fly reel you need.  Now, some people might give me flack for this, but I am of the opinion that the fly reel is usually the least important aspect of your fly-fishing set-up, especially for beginners.  So, if you are just getting into fly fishing, or trying it out to see if it is something you will like, I would NOT spend a lot of money on your reel.  Spend that money on the line, rod, and flies.But to help you make your fly reel choice, there is some important information that you need to know.  Understanding what a fly reel does is the first step in deciding what you need in your first fly reel.  The reel, in your fly fishing system, does three things, it holds your line, it retrieves your line (the slack and sometimes when fighting a fish), and provides "drag" to slow the line leaving your reel.  To make the best decision on your first fly reel, you should know how the reel is constructed, what size the reel is and size arbor it has, and what the drag system is (and if it is sealed.) 

Fly Reel Construction

There are two basic ways that a fly reel is constructed, machined or cast.  Machined reels are "carved" out of a block of high grade aluminum, and a cast reel is made by pouring molten metal (usually aluminum) into a mold.  Here is a brief rundown of each:

Machined Reels

• Usually stronger reels that can withstand more "abuse"
• Usually lighter
• Can absorb/withstand more heat when fighting a fish
• Are typically more expensive

Cast Reels

• Usually the least expensive option
• Strong enough to hold up in almost all situations
• Getting better (stronger and lighter) all the time

For my first venture into the world of fly fishing, I wouldn't worry too much about how the reel is made.  Like I mentioned earlier, I would try to save money on the reel.  And although it might not be as "flashy," a cast reel will work just fine for your first fly reel.

Reel/Arbor Size

Reel Size

To make your first reel purchase as simple as possible, try to select a reel that is designed to hold the size line you plan on fishing and will balance the size rod you chose (we discussed Choosing the Right Fly Rod here).  Most fly reels are designed to hold multiple sizes of line, and you will see that written somewhere on the reel or box.  So, for example, if you decided to go with a 5 weight fly rod (like TFFF suggested) you should probably look for a size 4/5 or 5/6 fly reel.  This means that the reel is designed to fish size 4 or 5, or 5 or 6, fly lines.  However, it is not the end of the world if you cannot find the "right size" reel.  I have fished size 7/8 reels on 3 weight rods, and it worked just fine.  But do try to find a reel that is not too heavy for your rod, throwing off the balance and making fishing less enjoyable.

Arbor Size

The arbor is basically the "spindle" that the fly line (and all it's components) wraps around on the reel.  Fly reels are typically made with arbors in one of three sizes, small arbor, mid arbor, or large arbor.  In most freshwater fly fishing situations, the size of the arbor does not matter all that much.  However, the larger the arbor is, the more line you can pick up with each rotation of the handle.  This allows you to pick up slack faster.  In situations where you are fighting a larger fish, or a fish that might run right at you, being able to reel in your line faster can help.  However, larger arbor reels are usually larger, so a smaller arbor reel might be a little bit lighter.In choosing your first fly reel, I wouldn't worry too much about the arbor size, unless you are planning on using that reel for saltwater most often.  And as far as the reel size goes, I would just try to match the size of the rod I am going to fish.

Drag Systems

One version of a click drag system.
The drag on a reel is a system that is designed to slow down the spool when line is being pulled off.  To break drags down simply, there are two basic drag systems in fly reels, click drags (click and pawl) and disk drags.  Here is a little more info on each of those:

Click and Pawl Drags

It is easy to hear when someone is fishing a click and pawl drag system reel.  Whenever line is pulled off, you hear the unmistakable "clicks" of the pawl (a metal tooth) that pushes against the teeth on a gear.  This serves as enough pressure to be a break that will prevent overruns (birds-nests) in your fly line.Why fish a click and pawl drag system?  Because they are usually less expensive, lightweight, simple (very few parts), proven (been around for a long, long time), and nostalgic and fun.Why not fish a click and pawl drag system?  Because it is more difficult to apply pressure and protect your fly line system when fighting a fish.  You are the one to control how much pressure is put on a fish when you are fighting it.  And because they do not come in "sealed" systems, meaning you will have to perform some maintenance.

Disk Drags

A disk drag system is your other choice.  These are a more modern approach to drag systems on fly reels.  They function by applying pressure to pads, or disks, that tighten down against the spool.  This system is usually easy to adjust the tension on the spool, just by turning a knob.  There are different levels or quality options for disk drags that usually correlate to the material that the pads are made out of.  Some are plastic, and are more susceptible to breaking down (flexing and bending) and are not as smooth.  Some are cork, which can also break down over time, but are much smoother and do a better job to protect your line from breaking.  And the last option is a carbon fiber pad that is long lasting, won't flex/bend, light weight, and very smooth.Why fish a disk drag system? Because they are smoother and easier to control, allowing you to easily protect your line system from breaking when fighting a fish.Why not fish a disk drag system?  Because they are typically more expensive and if they do break down, you often have to send them in to get repaired.  Also, you don't get the retro, unmistakable clicking sound.

Sealed vs Open Drag Systems

Some reels will have a sealed drag system, and some will not.  Sealed drag systems are built so that nothing can get into them.  Dirt, sand, water, salt, will all be kept out, protecting the drag system.  Open (unsealed) drag systems are the opposite.  Grit will penetrate into the drag system, so regular (but relatively easy) maintenance will need to be done.

Recommendation on Drags

If you are looking to get your first fly reel, I would probably recommend trying to get a disk drag system reel, but this is not necessary.  I only would recommend that because it would be one less thing to worry about when fighting a fish.  That said, if you know you are fishing smaller water for smaller fish, a click and pawl reel will fish just fine.  I use one 80% of time.  The only time I would recommend spending extra money to get a sealed drag system is if you know you plan on fishing saltwater with this reel.

Recap

So to wrap everything up, if you are looking to purchase your first fly reel I would make the following recommendations:

• Primarily fishing small waters: Don't spend a lot!  Look for a decent quality, small, click and pawl reel that fits the size rod you have.  I have plenty of "vintage" reals that I picked up cheap and still fish.
• Primarily fishing larger freshwater: Look for an inexpensive disk drag reel that fits the size rod you have. I have some Orvis, Cabela's, and Echo, that are good and a low price.
• Primarily fishing saltwater:  Find a decent priced sealed drag system reel with a large arbor. Waterworks-Lamson and Echo make some at a decently low price.

Selection of reels I picked up for a low price.Many quality reels can be found on Facebook marketplace at good prices.  They just might need a little TLC before you fish them.  Like I mentioned earlier, I don't believe in spending a bunch of money on a fly reel before I know I am going to be fly fishing all the time.  Don't be afraid to send me questions about your entry gear, I am more than willing to help out!I hope this article helped you learn a little bit about your buying your first fly reel. As I said before, be careful, once you start fly fishing, you will never stop.  If you have any advice for first-time fly reel buyers, let me know in the comments.Peace out-side, y'all.