Viewing a thread - 11R22.5 tires for farm semi - AgTalk Home
Viewing a thread - 11R22.5 tires for farm semi - AgTalk Home
Posted 12/24/ 09:43 (#)
Subject: 11R22.5 tires for farm semi
WC IowaI was wondering what everyone buys for tires for their farm trucks. We use this one for grain hauling out of fields, hauling grain from bins to E-plant, pulling our tender trailer for spraying, and pulling a tanker for 32% application. I would say 40% on gravel and 60% on highway. I will not use re-caps. Priced some Hercules drive tires for around $280/tire after FET. That was about the cheapest tire I found. BFG's and Dunlop's are around $400/tire. Want something to last reasonably well, but with all of the gravel and heavy loads we run it seems nothing lasts super long. Also do the open shoulder or closed shoulder tires wear better for the type of environment they will be subjected to? TIA
Edit: We put approximately 8-10K on this particular truck. Could be a few more now that we put up a bunch of corn storage this past year.
Edited by hfarmsinc 12/24/ 13:57
Osnabrock NDJust put on some double coins, they look good and have heard good things bout their tires. Got ours for bout $310 with fet.
ec nebraskawe use Hercules tires on our trucks and have no problems with them most of our driving is on gravel as well
Dearfield Co.I sell lots of Dayton brand chinese tires to farmers. Slightly softer rubber compound that seems forgiving to lots of gravel. I personally like the BFG on gravel and will pay the money to get themOne thing to watch for on some of the tires is their speed rating. Have come across some that have a 55 mph speed rating. I was surprise that you could actual get a big truck tire that low. Worst part was dealer did not even realize that. There is usually a speed letter code stamped on the sidewall of most tires, just need the speed chart to convert it. Easy way is to do some googling on where to find the codes on the tires and for the chart.A closed shoulder sucks, on wet grass and wet dirt
but wears great on black top roads
Trivoli, IllinoisI run these, so far good. Made for gravel roads,plus made in USA. No more China tires for me. Soft and not round.
http://generaltire.com/tires/commercial/d660
David Loberg Northeast NebraskaWe've been happy with BF Goodrich DR444s on our drives, TR144 on the trailers, and ST576 on the steers. BFGs seem to handle the gravel very well. Once wore down & harden up a bit, they get put on the trailer tags, don't tend to scrub off as easily
Edited by dalobe01 12/24/ 10:35
meade co. sw, ksPay the extra for the bfg, have really good luck with them compared to the cheaper tires. Seem to last way longer and wear evenly and not choppy so I can put them on trailers when there is 1/3 or so tread left
Western IowaI have BFG444's as well
Ran them a year on one truck, then put them on the other when it needed them.
Been 3 years on the 1st truck and they are holding up real well, and have a little 'bite' to get going when pulling out of questionable fields.
One thing to note when buying new semi tires is the tread depth. They are different.I spent 22+ years in the tire business here in a farming community. The only drive tire to use on farm to market gravel roads is a FIRESTONE 663 drive. Gives you more bite than most and will last on the gravel. I sold all of the tire brands these other guys have mentioned, put on hundreds of them for farm and commercial use. Initial cost is a little more but you have a casing you can trade in for recapping
central - east central Minnesota -hd6gtom - 12/24/ 11:24 I spent 22+ years in the tire business here in a farming community. The only drive tire to use on farm to market gravel roads is a FIRESTONE 663 drive. Gives you more bite than most and will last on the gravel. I sold all of the tire brands these other guys have mentioned, put on hundreds of them for farm and commercial use. Initial cost is a little more but you have a casing you can trade in for recapping
Casing are only good, so long - for recapping . .. . . Most farm trucks will not wear out the tread and the casing will be rated a D or low, due to age, which equals little to no value at time of new tires . . . . . . .
central - east central Minnesota -hfarmsinc - 12/24/ 09:43 I was wondering what everyone buys for tires for their farm trucks. We use this one for grain hauling out of fields, hauling grain from bins to E-plant, pulling our tender trailer for spraying, and pulling a tanker for 32% application. I would say 40% on gravel and 60% on highway. I will not use re-caps. Priced some Hercules drive tires for around $280/tire after FET. That was about the cheapest tire I found. BFG's and Dunlop's are around $400/tire. Want something to last reasonably well, but with all of the gravel and heavy loads we run it seems nothing lasts super long. Also do the open shoulder or closed shoulder tires wear better for the type of environment they will be subjected to? TIA
A closed shoulder tire should technically wear longer then a open shoulder tires (on all surfaces ) . .. .
LONGMARCH Tire contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.
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But, for farm use (in and out of fields ) - I'd tend to go with an open shoulder tires. That would depend on how many miles a year you put on your truck, though. You didn't state that and it'd be helpful to give you a better opinion.
Personally, for the miles the trucks I drive and use on gravel and hard surfaced roads - a good open shoulder Mud and Snow tires works best. It'll give a guy the traction for in and out of fields and in inclement weather hauling on hard surfaced roads. In our application - the tires will last 10 yrs or so and the caseing will be too old for recapping (according to our cappers, in our areas ).
For more 11R22.5 Winter Tireinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
northeastern OhioI've used the open shoulder Daytons and really like them better than anything else. The DoubleCoin have lasted a long time too. I tried a set of Coopers in an emergency and they wore out fast.
sw NebraskaI have a couple sets of Roadmaster by Cooper RM852's http://roadmastertires.com/by-application/long-haul.aspx on my trucks that get a few more miles but neither on the road every day, harvest plus haulout with similar gravel/highway splits as you and so far so good. I get closed shoulder tires hoping to avoid throwing rocks so bad, taking out mirrors and back window even with fenders. I don't really know if it helps. They were mid-priced between BFG's and cheapest Chinese tires. I enrolled in the Michelin Advantage but can get just as good of price through the more aggressive tire dealers on Mich's and BFG's without using the program. Steers I always buy a Firestone, BFG, or Mich.
I have a set of Chinese Dynatraks on the truck that basically lives on the fertilizer tender trailer and harvest relief if one of the others is down. They have some age on them now and still look good, not many miles though.olwhda
Posted 12/24/ 12:51 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: 11R22.5 tires for farm semi
Liberty, MOI've always preferred Michelin drive tires , but they were unavailable the last time , so put BFG's on and they are doing a great job for me, even in some of the bin sites where I haul from. I don't remember the numbers on the tires, but they are open shoulder, and a little muscy due to the tread depth, but getting better after 10,000 miles.Walton Farms
Posted 12/24/ 15:41 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: 11R22.5 tires for farm semi
SW Indianahd6gtom - 12/24/ 12:24
I spent 22+ years in the tire business here in a farming community. The only drive tire to use on farm to market gravel roads is a FIRESTONE 663 drive. Gives you more bite than most and will last on the gravel. I sold all of the tire brands these other guys have mentioned, put on hundreds of them for farm and commercial use. Initial cost is a little more but you have a casing you can trade in for recapping
Agree 100%, 663's is all we use around here.Wildcat05
Posted 12/24/ 16:06 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: 11R22.5 tires for farm semi
Just south of Fort Wayne, INWe switched into the Michelin advantage and Michelin tires. I got 110,000 miles out of a set of steers till a piece of metal got in one broke the band. They were only were half wore down and the rears are still going. Dayton's and road masters did not wear well and wore out quick. Still run 663's on dump truck but they are stone throwers.kinzeman
Posted 12/24/ 19:28 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: 11R22.5 tires for farm semi
WINTER TYRE - Kelucktyre
Related to snow tires are those with an M+S rating, which denotes an "all-season" capability—quieter on clear roads, but less capable on snow or ice than a winter tire.
Tread:
Attributes that can distinguish snow tires from "all-season" and summer tires include:
- An open, deep tread, whose void ratio between rubber and spaces between the solid rubber is comparatively high
- Shoulder blocks—specialized tread design at the outside of the tire tread to increase snow contact and friction
- A narrower aspect ratio between the diameter of the tire and the tread width to minimize resistance from the plowing effect of the tire through deeper snow
- Hydrophilic rubber compounds that improve friction on wet surfaces
- Additional siping, or thin slits in the rubber, that provide more biting edges and improve traction on wet or icy surfaces.
Studs:
Many jurisdictions in Asia, Europe, and North America seasonally allow snow tires with metal or ceramic studs to improve grip on packed snow or ice. Such tires are prohibited in other jurisdictions or during warmer months because of the damage they may cause to road surfaces. The metal studs are fabricated by encapsulating a hard pin in a softer material base, sometimes called the jacket. The pin is often made of tungsten carbide, a very hard high performance ceramic. The softer base is the part that anchors the stud in the rubber of the tire. As the tire wears with use, the softer base wears so that its surface is at about the same level as the rubber, whereas the hard pin wears so that it continues to protrude from the tire. The pin should protrude at least 1 millimetre (0.04 in) for the tire to function properly. Snow tires do not eliminate skidding on ice and snow, but they greatly reduce risks.
Studdable tires are manufactured with molded holes on the rubber tire tread. Usually, there are 80 to 100 molded holes per tire for stud insertion. The insertion is done by using a special tool that spreads the rubber hole so that a stud jacket can be inserted and the flange at the bottom of the jacket can be fitted nicely to the bottom of the hole. The metal studs come in specific heights to match the depths of the holes molded into the tire tread based on the tread depths. For this reason, stud metals can only be inserted when the tires have not been driven on. A proper stud insertion results in the metal jacket that is flush with the surface of the tire tread having only the pin part that protrudes.
When studs come into contact with pavements they abrade the asphalt or concrete surface. This can result in creating polluting dust and wear in the wheel path that prevents proper drainage. For this reason, studded tires are banned, at least seasonally, in many jurisdictions.
How to Choose Proper Tires for Winter Driving
Understand the Ratings
3PMSF: Tire makers apply the Alpine symbol – also known as the three-peak-mountain with snowflake (3PMSF) – to any tire that passes performance requirements on snow. This is known as the snow grip index, or SG. In the past, only dedicated winter tires bore this symbol, but some all-season tires carry the marking
today, which can make shopping for winter tires confusing.M+S: The M+S symbol displayed on an all-season tire indicates it will perform well in moderate winter conditions. M+S means mud and snow.
All-season tires marked with M+S, or the three-peak mountain snowflake symbol and M+S, are designed with enough grip to handle modest amounts of snow and ice. All season-tires with these markings will perform better than those without markings, but no all-season tire performs as well as a true winter tire.
The Anatomy of a Winter Tire
Performance winter tires are built differently than all-season tires. They’re made from a flexible, hydrophilic rubber compound that provides more traction on snow and ice.The tread design is also different from the lateral grooves identifiable on most all-season tires. Winter tires boast sharp, irregular tread blocks and larger grooves between lugs to help the tire cut through and displace snow, creating closer contact with the road.
True winter tires are siped, meaning they have numerous slits in the lugs that provide added grip. These anatomical differences make winter tires more aggressive than all-season models branded for mud and snow.
In general, there are three different categories of true winter tires: performance, studded and studdable.
Studs
Studs are lightweight metal pins embedded into the tread of winter tires. Like snow chains, they dig into compactsnow and ice, improving traction. They have drawbacks: They’re noisy and have the potential to damage pavement.
For this reason, states have varying regulations on what time of year studs are allowed on public roadways, if at all. The U.S. Tire Manufacturers Association published a list of studded tire regulations as of November for passenger cars, but recommends double-checking with your state or local Department of Transportation.
While studded tires perform best in extreme conditions, extra tread depth is needed to accommodate studs, which limits studded tire size options.
Studless tires have more advanced winter tread compounds, which means they’ll outperform studded models in all but the slickest conditions. Studless tires handle best in slush and packed snow.
If you’re unsure whether you’ll need studs, consider investing in studdable tires, which feature performance tread but can accommodate the addition of studs if desired.
Extra Tips for Purchasing Winter Tires
When purchasing winter tires, keep these five tips in mind to ensure your vehicle handles safely in winter conditions:- Pay attention to sizing when buying a new set of tires. Generally, it’s best to use the same tire size as the OEM.
- Cold temperatures drop your tire pressure. On average, a tire loses 1 PSI for every 10-degree Fahrenheit temperature drop. Check your tire pressure regularly to maintain optimum performance. The recommended tire pressure is the same for winter tires as for other tires.
- Always buy four matching tires. It’s tempting to save cash and only buy two, but this creates uneven traction, which could be hazardous. Uneven tire tread can also damage the transmissions on some vehicles, so buying four tires up front is the most economical, long-term choice.
- Check your tires for wear at least once a month. After roughly five years of use, you should have them inspected annually. Replace tires when the wear bar indicator is visible.
- Properly storing your winter tires extends their lifespan. Clean each tire thoroughly before putting them in storage and keep the tires cool, dry and out of direct sunlight.
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