Brewing with Steam - The Pros and Cons - Asian Beer Network

Now on to brewing with steam, the second option is our brewery heating series. Steam is a popular heating method in craft brewing, especially for brewhouses 10bbl (11.75HL) and over.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website YME.

The first article in the brewery heating series was “Brewing with Electric“, please click the link to read it for yourself (opens in new tab).

In this article we will discuss why steam is the preferred method for many brewers. Starting with steam jackets, the preferred and easiest way to implement steam heating in a brewery.

Let’s look at the diagram of a brew kettle with steam jackets below, to get a closer look…

If you look in the diagram above, you will see two steam jackets. One is at the bottom, with the steam going in N3 and coming out at N2. The second jacket is on the side walls, with the steam going in N5 and coming out N4.

As the steam continuously passes through these jackets, it heats up the wort in the vessel. In most brewhouses you can regulate how much steam goes in the vessel, much like controlling a flame on a stove top.

There are three other methods you can employ to heat your brewhouse with steam, we’re going to begin with the internal calandria.

Brewing with Steam – Internal Calandria

A brew kettle with internal calandria usually has a bottom jacket too. Some reasons to add an internal calandria to your brew kettle are as follows:

• Shorten your brew day – As it more efficient heating than jacket alone
• Increase evaporation rate – So potentially shorter boil times depending on beer style
• Increase the movement of wort in the kettle – So, also potentially requiring less energy input
• Less chance of caramelization than some systems – Due to wort movement
• Reported increased hop utilization and hot break – I need to research this further to confirm
• Lowers the chance of DMS – Due to a vigorous boil and evaporation rates

A calandrias efficiencies comes from the large amount of heating area they represent combined with very little heat loss to the atmosphere. We can explain the improved boil off rate through by more efficient heating as well as increased wort movement too.

Think of heating a pan of water on a stove top, it’ll heat up and evaporate faster if you’re constantly stirring it. The agitation increases the surface area of the water in contact with the atmosphere allowing more water molecules to escape as steam.

The improved efficiencies, plus potentially shorter boil times for some beer styles means over time the calandria to pay for itself. Especially if you’re doing multiple brews per day, imagine the savings in energy and labor.

How Does an Internal Calandria Work?

You place a calandria vertically inside a brew kettle, it uses convection which forces the wort through the tubes inside the calandria where it’s super-heated by steam.

A calandria works without any moving parts but, instead through convection (heat rises). It’s controlled with steam regulation. It has a wort spreader (see fig.1 above) to prevent boilovers and as well as promote wort movement.

Note: When using an internal calandria, turn off the side jackets when you’re boiling, because if you have them on (and potentially the bottom ones too), it can affect the agitation of the wort.

Brewing with Steam – External Calandrias

External Calandrias are mostly used in larger breweries, although I’ve heard of them being used in small 500-liter (4.2bbl.), systems too. An external calandria offers the same benefits as an internal calandria.

However, external calandrias offer more control of boil off rates than internal calandrias. As the speed of the circulation pump can be regulated so, agitation from batch to batch can be replicated. Furthermore, steam flow to your EWB (external wort boiler) can be adjusted as well.

As you can see in the fig 2. Above, heating takes place outside the kettle. Wort is pumped through the EWB, super-heated and then returned to the kettle onto a spreader plate/cone just above the surface of the wort. The circulation is around 8 to 10 times the volume of wort in the kettle per hour.

The downside to an external calandria (compared to internal) is more moving parts so, there’s more which can go wrong, plus more maintenance required as well. Also, the extra piping, valves and pump, increase your start-up cost too.

Brewing with Steam – Coil Inside of the Brew Kettle

Now this isn’t a common set-up; however, the first brewery in London I worked for, had this system. These setups appear so rare, even when I Google “steam coils in a brew kettle” nothing comes up.

The above picture is for a HLT steam coil. The most obvious benefit is, the heat transfer (therefore efficiency) is high, as the “heating coil” is immersed in the liquid being heated.

They’re super hard to clean though. I used to have to get inside and clean the coil by hand. It was also always hot in there so, a damn good work out [laughing emoji]. So, really there are 3 main options and this “outdated” option.

• Steam jacket
• Internal Calandria
• External Calandria
• Steam Coil (less used)

In a HLT a coil makes more sense; it’s water and doesn’t need cleaning. Only for regular acid CIP (maybe every 2 months) and scheduled passivation. You’re not looking for a vigorous boil only to get it to temperature.

If designed right, a coil in the HLT can still raise he temperature by 1°C per minute. As the coils are immersed in the liquid, the heat transfer is still efficient.

Mashing in With Steam

When using steam in you mash tun or mash mixer (depends on your brewhouse setup), the vessel usually has steam jackets similar to the brew kettle. There’s an agitator or paddle inside the mash tun, to mix the grain and water and ensure a homogenous mix.

The steam jacket combined with agitation allows for efficient heating. Please see the picture below for a typical mash paddle in a mash mixer. This one is on a 25HL (21.3 bbl.) system.

In some smaller breweries this “mixing” is often done by hand with a manual mash paddle. It’s always a great way to start the day and get the blood flow pumping.

Brewhouse manufacturers design vessels to heat at 1°C per minute, including for mash tuns. Being able to heat your mash tun is better for your brewery, as it means you can step mash.

Step Mashing

With step mashing, you raise the temperature of the mash over the course of the mash stand. This allows you to brew beer truer to style plus also helps with lauter run off to kettle, on some beers like Hefeweizen.

It seems pertinent to note here: If you’ve a dedicated lauter tun, it’s not usually jacketed. You raise them temperature of the mash to around 78°C in the mash tun.

You then send it to the preheated lauter tun. A properly insulated lauter shouldn’t drop in temperature during the lauter stand and vourlauf. Vorlauf is the recirculation of wort in the lauter tun to clear it, prior to transfer to the brew kettle.

Steam Can Be Used Elsewhere If You Employ It in Your Brewery

There are other advantages to having steam in your brewery. It can be used for other tasks including:

For heating your CIP unit – Granted many use electric heating instead, to heat the caustic.

Cask/Keg cleaning – Many keg cleaners use steam as a part of the process. Steam can be used as part of the sterilization step as well as for heating the caustic

Sterilizing the air for wort aeration – Most brewers used pure oxygen to aerate their wort on the way to the fermenter. However, you can also use air from your compressor.

However, it’s not going to be “clean”. You can use steam to “clean” the compressed air, making it suitable for wort aeration. Even if you don’t like this idea, it’s still a good back up to have just in case.

Cleaning wooden barrels – If you’ve a barrel program, steam is useful to clean them.

I’m sure there are other uses for steam I’m missing out on; I will add them later, if I think of them. However, as you can see steam definitely has it uses around the brewery.

The Advantages of Brewing with Steam

As we said at the start of the article, most brewers prefer steam for some of the following reasons:

Fast Temperature Increase

When using steam, the “heating surface area” is large, with both bottom and side jackets plus optional calandria. So, it’s possible to heat your wort quickly and maintain a vigorous boil for good evaporation rates.

Even Heat Distribution

The large surface area leads to more even heat distribution, so there’s less chance of scorching/sticking. Furthermore, it’s easier to clean up after, than using direct fire or electric when the brewing is finished.

Versatility

As we said above you can you use steam for a number of tasks in a brewery from cleaning kegs to sterlizing compressed air for wort aeration.

Control

Depending on your brewhouse set up, steam can be easy to control, making procedures and processes simpler to replicate. The last brewery I installed, allowed you to open the steam valves as a percentage, meaning fine control of the boil.

Long Life and Potentially Expandable

In the disadvantages list of using steam below, I say how steam requires more maintenance. However, if you properly maintain your boiler and perform preventative maintenance, a boiler can last a long time, providing a sound investment.

Also, if you use an electric steam generator they can be run in sequence. So, if you expand and require more steam, you can buy another electric steam generator to run alongside your original one. So, the costs of expansion are minimized.

Disadvantages of Brewing with Steam

Costs

The upfront costs of installing a boiler are high. They also require a fair amount of maintenance to keep the generator in top shape. From keeping an eye on the water treatment feeding the boiler to making sure you regularly clean the internal coils (usually by back flushing them).

Regulation

Depending on where your brewery is, local regulations might not allow you, to house a boiler in your brewery. Before you opt for steam make sure you’re allowed it in your location. Local emission regulations can significantly increase costs and reduce efficiencies too.

Cost Effectiveness

For a small brewhouse, steam might not be cost effective when you consider start-up costs, needs for the brewery and maintenance. On a smaller system, an electric steam generator is probably the way to go if you really want steam.

Brewing with Steam Conclusions

I am a fan of brewing with steam myself. I’ve used it in a number of systems I’ve worked on. I wouldn’t consider anything else, in brewhouses over 15HL (12.8 bbl.) in size.

In the larger brewhouse; the control, versatility, speed of heating, if the setup is right, PLUS ease of cleanup make it a no brainer for me.

I can potentially be heating a hot liquor tank (HLT), mash tun and wort in a kettle as it’s filling up, using steam all at the same time. If I have a 3, 4 or 5 vessel system doing multiple brews per day.

Therefore the upfront costs are paid back in cheaper heating plus saved time and labor costs.

On Smaller Systems

On a smaller system the choice isn’t so clear. However, this is a 4 parts series on brewery heating methods. So, to give proper consideration to all heating methods and brewhouse set-ups, it makes sense to draw conclusions in the wrap-up article.

Which you can now view by clicking the link below (as well as the other articles in the series):

Additional reading:
Technic Introduces the Semcon Fountain
Detailed Structure of the Weld Navigator Laser Vision Weld Seam ...
Pasta macaroni machine - Industry Knowledge

The company is the world’s best brewing equipment solutions supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

For the other articles in the brewery heating series please see the links below:

Brewing with Electric (Part 1) – For the pros and cons of brewing with electric click here.

Direct Fire Brewing (Part 3) – For different direct fire heating options, with their pros and cons click here.

Brewery Heating Options Wrap-Up (Part 4) – To discover which is the best heating option for you and why click here.

Lanemark TX Burners (additional content) – For a dedicated piece on the benefits of a Lanemark TX Burners system please click here.

Who Am I?

Hello, my name is Neil, I’ a British brewer based in China. I first came to China in . I’ve been lucky enough to have brew on a number of systems, in various parts of the world in my 25-year brewing career.

I now assist people with their brewing projects, helping people in a number of ways from recipe formulation to sourcing brewing equipment.

Need Help With Your Brewing Project?

If you’ve an upcoming brewery project and would like some help, or simply want to talk with someone, then please feel free to me

However, if you’d like to reach out me to me on your preferred social network instead, then please scan the QR code below to send me a connection request:

I’m currently advising on projects from the UK to New Zealand. I’m happy to answer some initial questions you might have and assist in any way I can.

For me information about my services, please free to look at my deck below.

==>Please Click Here To Download An Introduction To My Services (Power Point Presentation) <==

Thanks for taking the time to read my article today, I hope you found it useful. Have a great day and happy brewing.

Cheers

Neil

Homebrewing and craft brewing have seen a huge surge in popularity in recent years. With so many new hobbyists and microbreweries entering the market, the range of brewing equipment available has expanded dramatically. This guide will explore the various types of equipment needed for craft beer production, from kettles and fermenters to kegging systems and filtration units. We’ll break down the key choices, considerations, and costs for setting up your brewhouse.

Overview of Craft Beer Brewing Equipment

The basic brewing process involves mashing grains, boiling wort, fermenting, conditioning, filtering, and packaging. While it’s possible to produce beer with very simple equipment, most craft breweries use more specialized gear to improve efficiency, quality, and capacity. Here’s an overview of the typical equipment needed:

Brewing Equipment Type Key Function Entry Level Options Advanced Options Mash tun / Lauter tun Mixes crushed grains with hot water for mash conversion and wort separation Cooler mashtun with braided hose Stainless mash tun with false bottom Brew kettle Heats wort, facilitates boiling and hop additions 5-10 gallon brew kettle 15-30 barrel commercial brewhouse Wort chiller Quickly cools boiled wort before fermentation Immersion chiller coil Plate chiller, heat exchanger Fermenter Holds beer during primary and secondary fermentation Plastic bucket, glass carboy Conical stainless unitank Temperature control Maintains optimal fermentation temperature Fermwrap heater, cool bottle Glycol chiller system, heat exchanger Yeast management Cultivates yeast for fermentation pitch Mason jars, stir plate Yeast brink, conical propagator Transfer equipment Moves liquids between vessels Auto-siphon, tubing, pump Automatic inline transfer Filtration Clarifies and stabilizes finished beer None, settling in fermenter Plate filter, centrifugation Carbonation Adds CO2 bubbles to beer before serving Priming sugar, cask conditioning Force carbonation in keg or brite tank Serving vessels Dispenses carbonated beer to drinkers Bottles, kegs, casks Canning line, bottling line

This covers the standard brewing hardware for small to medium sized breweries. Larger industrial setups will also incorporate conveyors, automated sensors, CIP systems, and other specialized gear. Understanding the options for each process will help craft the ideal brewhouse within budget.

Mash Tun / Lauter Tun Options

The mash tun mixes the crushed malt with hot water to activate mash enzymes and convert starches into fermentable sugars. The lauter tun then separates the sugary wort from the grain particulates. For homebrewers, this is often done in a single vessel like an insulated picnic cooler. Commercial breweries generally use dedicated mash and lauter tuns.

Mash Tun Considerations

• Volume – Size in gallons or barrels to accommodate max batch size
• Direct vs indirect heat – Steam jackets vs external heating of water
• Insulation – Reduce heat loss during mashing rest times
• False bottom – Perforated or slotted screen for wort filtration
• Rakes – Mix mash and improve filtration efficiency
• Automation – Computerized temperature and viscosity sensors

Type Description Capacity Cost Cooler mashtun Insulated beverage cooler with braided hose for filtering 5-10 gallon batches $50-$150 Stainless mash tun Fabricated stainless steel mash tun with false bottom 10-20 barrel brewhouse $5,000-$10,000 Jacketed mash tun Steam-heated commercial mash tun 15-30 barrel system $15,000-$25,000

Homebrewers can often repurpose a drink cooler as a combined mash/lauter tun on a budget under $100. Commercial mash tuns require heavy duty stainless construction and false bottoms for wort filtration. Automated rakes and computer controls further increase costs in large brewhouses.

Brew Kettles for Boiling Wort

After lautering, the sweet wort moves to the brew kettle for boiling. This accomplishes several things:

• Sterilization – Boiling kills bacteria for sanitation
• Hop Isomerization – Adds bitterness and flavor from hops
• Extraction – Dissolves sugars, proteins and compounds from hops
• Evaporation – Concentrates wort to desired gravity and volume

Many options exist for wort boiling vessels:

Type Volume Heat Source Cost Stainless steel brew kettle 5-30 gallon Propane burner $100-$500 Electric brew kettle 5-15 gallon Embedded electric elements $150-$500 Steam jacketed kettle 7-30 barrel Steam jacket $5,000-$25,000 Direct fire brewhouse 10-100 barrel Gas burner array $50,000-$500,000

For homebrewing, basic stainless kettles in the 5-10 gallon range work well for stovetop boiling. Commercial kettles use steam jackets, natural gas burners, or electric elements to generate the heat needed for larger batch sizes. Sophisticated computer automation is also common. Costs scale dramatically with production capacity.

Wort Chillers for Rapid Cooling

Once boiled, the hot wort must be quickly cooled to under 100°F to pitch yeast. Slow cooling risks contamination and poor fermentation. Brewers use wort chillers to optimize this temperature reduction.

Cooling Method How It Works Speed Cost Ice bath Submerge kettle in ice water bath Slow, 1+ hrs Cheap, ice Immersion chiller Coil in kettle cooled by flow of cold water Medium, 30 min $50-$100 Plate chiller Flow wort across plates surrounded by cold water Very fast, 5 min $150-$300 Heat exchanger Pass wort through tubes surrounded by cold liquid Extremely fast, 1 min $1,500+

For 5 gallon batches, an immersion chiller coil works well and is inexpensive. Larger commercial heat exchangers or plate chillers provide rapid cooling. Glycol chillers are also popular for precise temperature control.

Fermentation Vessels: Carboys, Buckets, Unitanks

Once chilled, the wort is transferred to a fermentation vessel where yeast converts sugars into alcohol and CO2. Many fermenter options exist:

Type Volume Material Cost Glass carboy 3-6 gallons Glass $20-$50 Plastic bucket 3-6 gallons Food-grade plastic $10-$20 Stainless conical 7-60 barrel Stainless steel $1,000-$5,000 Open fermentor 5-30 barrel Stainless or wood $500-$2,000

Homebrewers often use inexpensive carboys and buckets in the 5 gallon range. Commercial breweries use large stainless steel unitank fermenters with conical bottoms for collecting yeast and dry hop additions. Open wood or stainless fermentors are also popular for specific beer styles.

Temperature Control Systems

Controlling fermentation temperature is critical for clean, consistent beer. The optimal range for most ales is 60-72°F. Lagers ferment even colder, around 45-55°F. Options for temperature control include:

Type Method Precision Cost Swamp cooler Evaporative cooling via wet shirt or towel ± 4-5°F Cheap Fermwrap heater Heating pad wraps fermenter ± 2°F $30-$50 Glycol chiller Recirculate cooled glycol liquid ± 1°F $300-$1,000 Jacketed unitank Integrated cooling jacket ± 1°F $1,000-$5,000+

The glycol chiller systems used by professional breweries allow precise temperature control, but are expensive. Homebrewers can often manage with cheaper fermwrap heaters or swamp cooler setups.

Yeast Management Equipment

Reusing a healthy yeast culture speeds fermentation and provides consistency between batches. Equipment like stir plates and yeast brinks help maintain cultures.

Item Purpose Cost Mason jar Store yeast cakes for harvesting $1 Erlenmeyer flask Grow yeast starters on stir plate $5-$10 Stir plate Agitate yeast starter for growth $50-$150 Yeast brink Maintain active cultures for pitching $1,000-$2,000

For homebrewing, mason jars and flasks work well for reusing yeast and making starters. Commercial brewers use yeast brinks for large volume storage and management of multiple strains.

Transfer Equipment: Pumps, Tubing, Racking Canes

Sanitary transfers from fermenters to aging tanks, packaging, and more require various tubing, piping, valves and pumps:

Item Material Purpose Cost Auto-siphon Plastic Homebrew transfers $10-$20 Tubing Vinyl, silicone, stainless Short runs of wort/beer $0.50-$2/ft Quick disconnects Stainless, plastic Disconnect tubing easily $3-$10 ea Pump Stainless steel Transfer liquids $100-$1,000 Inline filter Plastic, stainless Clarify transfers $20-$150

Food grade vinyl or silicone tubing works for small transfers. Stainless steel piping is used for hard plumbed commercial systems, along with quick disconnect fittings for assembly. Peristaltic and centrifugal pumps efficiently move beer between vessels.

Beer Filtration Systems

Filtering finished beer helps clarify appearance and enhance stability:

Type Method Scale Cost Gelatin fining Gelatin powder binds haze particles for settling Homebrew, 1-5 barrels $20 per batch Diatomaceous earth Filter aid forms porous cake to filter beer Pilot system, 1-7 barrels $100-$300 Plate and frame filter Beer forced through stacked plates by pressure Mid-size brewery, 5-30 barrels $4,000-$8,000 Centrifuge Spin beer at high speed to separate solids Large brewery, 30+ barrels $30,000-$60,000+

Simple gelatin fining works well for homebrew scale if beer is given time to settle out in the fermenter. Commercial breweries use either plate filters or centrifuges for clarity and stability.

Carbonation and Serving

The final steps of production involve adding carbonation and serving the beer:

Method How It Works Scale Cost Priming sugar Added to fermenter, yeast produce natural CO2 Homebrew, kegs, cask Minimal Cask conditioning Secondary fermentation in cask Firkins, pins $100-$500 per cask Force carbonation Inject CO2 into kegs, tanks, brite beer Draft and bottling systems $500-$5,000 Counter pressure filler Maintains CO2 during bottling Bottling line $2,000-$10,000

Homebrewers and cask ale pubs rely on priming sugar for natural carbonation. Larger breweries force carbonate everything from kegs to bottles. Specialized counter pressure fillers maintain carbonation levels for bottling draft beer.

Choosing Brewing System Suppliers

Many factors go into selecting equipment vendors and designing a brewhouse. Here are key considerations when sourcing a professional brewing system:

• Reputation and experience – How long have they been in business? Check references.
• Quality of fabrication – Build quality, material choice, sanitation.
• Customization – Ability to accommodate specific needs.
• Customer service – Responsive support. Availability of parts/service.
• Scale options – Systems sized for needs today and growth plans.
• Pricing/value – Competitive pricing for quality and features.
• Lead time – Ability to deliver within project timeline.
• Manual vs automated – Level of control system integration needed.

Thorough upfront planning and vendor selection helps ensure a productive, efficient, and scalable brewing system that will support business goals.

Pros and Cons of Brewing Equipment Choices

Deciding on the right equipment configuration depends on budget, production goals, and growth plans. Here’s a look at the advantages and limitations of key options:

Equipment Pros Cons Cooler mashtun Inexpensive, easy Limited efficiency and batches Gas fired kettle Powerful, fast boiling Venting challenges, energy costs Electric kettle Clean, convenient Upfront cost, slow ramp up Plate chiller Rapid chilling Expensive, space Conical fermenter Yeast collection, dry hopping Cost, equipment footprint Glycol chiller Precise control Complex, high cost Centrifuge Fast, clear beer Very expensive, delicate

Balancing factors like cost, quality, consistency, and capacity help guide equipment decisions for a brewhouse. Focus on the functionality needed to meet quality and production goals both now and for projected growth.

Equipment Cost Analysis

Brewing equipment represents a major startup and capital investment. Expect costs from $1,000 to over $1 million depending on system scale and features. Here are typical price ranges:

System Key Components Typical Cost Range 1 barrel pilot system 3 vessel brew kettle, fermenters, glycol chiller, kegging $15,000-$30,000 3-7 barrel microbrewery 3-7 barrel kettle, 5-15 barrel fermentation, glycol, filtration, keg/canning $75,000-$250,000 15 barrel production brewery 15 barrel kettle, 30 barrel fermenters, centrifuge, canning $500,000-$1.5 million 30 barrel regional brewery 30-60 barrel kettle, 120 barrel fermenters, bottling $1.5-$5 million

Economies of scale allow larger breweries to produce beer at lower equipment costs per barrel. However, quality ingredients, technique and passion remain key!

FAQs

Q: What are the essential items for a basic homebrew system?

A: For basic homebrewing, you need a brew kettle, fermenting bucket, siphon and tubing, sanitizer, airlock, thermometer, bottles, and ingredients. Start with our homebrewing startup guide.

Q: What size brewing system do I need for a microbrewery?

A: For a microbrewery, look at 1-3 barrel brewhouses up to 10-15 barrels. This covers tapping 1-3 kegs at a time for a taproom up to broader distribution.

Q: Is buying used brewing equipment a good idea?

A: Used equipment can save money, but evaluate wear and sanitation carefully. Replace any items that are overly worn or rusted. Ensure electrical components meet current codes.

Q: How much does it cost to open a 10 barrel microbrewery?

A: With a 10 barrel brewhouse, 3 10-barrel fermenters, glycol chiller, brite tank, kegging and modest taproom buildout, plan on $250,000-$500,000.

Q: Should I choose stainless or copper brewing equipment?

A: Modern breweries strongly prefer stainless steel for durability and sanitation. Copper looks beautiful, but requires heavy maintenance. Go stainless for functionality.

Q: What qualifications should a brewery design consultant have?

A: Look for a consultant with at least 10-15 years of commercial brewing experience with system design, installation, and operation expertise. An engineering background is a plus.

Q: Can I build my own electric brewery control system?

A: While advanced homebrewers can construct electric kettles and controllers, commercial breweries are better served by integrated automation packages from reputable vendors. This reduces troubleshooting and risk.

Q: How often do breweries need to replace equipment?

A: With proper maintenance, major equipment like kettles, fermenters, chillers, and filtration can last 15-25 years. Expect to replace pumps, gaskets, and small parts more regularly.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website customized brewing equipment.